I believe that Zen, more than any other buddhist sect, makes a point of considering things such as preparing or eating meals, cleaning, etc. as very important parts of our practice. Here I would like to leave a few words on cooking in a Zen monastery or temple, which has come to be known as shōjin ryōri (精进料理) in Japan and zhāi cài (齋菜) in China and to which I have been recently introduced, by way of an afternoon class with a Zen monkess (forgive the neologism) this last saturday.
The word “shōjin” means a devotion to pursue a perfect state of mind banishing worldly thoughts and making efforts to keep striving for limitless perfection at each stage. That is to say, to prepare shōjin ryōri itself is a part of practice of Buddhism. “Shōjin” is the Japanese translation for the Sanskrit word “virya”, the fourth of the six paramitas, which means virility, vigor, strength or energy. “Ryōri” means simply cuisine.
Shōjin ryōri was brought to Japan through China and Korea along with the introduction of Buddhism. It has settled into the Japanese way of cooking, different from China or Korea, and developed its own unique cooking style with practical and refined skills. It is commonly said that Japanese cooking differs from Western cooking in the basis of “cooking with water” against “cooking with fat”. This was one of the many influences of shōjin ryōri on what is known today as Japanese cuisine.
All vegetables, except the five strong-smelling herbs of the lily family, are usable when they are in season, products of the regular cycle of the four seasons: in the spring, the new sprouts that shoot out; in the summer, the well grown green leaves; in the autumn, fruit and nuts; and in the winter, roots that warm the body from the core. In this manner, without going against seasonal ingredients, the menu is naturally made out.
Also used are edible wild plants such as warabi (fiddlehead fern), zenmai (flowering fern), tara - no - me (angelica buds) and kogomi (ostrich fern). Many kinds of edible roots and mushrooms are also prized. Beans are rich in variety (boiled beans are always stocked by temple kitchens). All these natural delicacies, including fruits and nuts, are ingredients that home vegetarian cooking shares with shōjin ryōri. The techniques of cooking, processing and preserving these ingredients could not have enriched ordinary household meals without the wisdom and guidance of the cooking priests of Zen and other Buddhist temples. In that sense, the history of the development of shōjin ryōri is also an integral part of the cultural history of Japanese people.
Typical of the processed ingredients used in Japanese vegetarian cooking are tofu and a bura — age (fried soybean curd). Numerous others include goma - dofu (sesame tofu), koya - dofu (dried tofu), yuba (soy milk film), fu (wheat gluten; fresh, dry, and fried fu), natto (fermented soy beans) and konnyaku (cakes or strips made from the starch of a rum root). Among the seaweed products used for vegetarian cooking are konbu kelp, wakame seagreens, arame, hijiki and the more famous nori.
Many practitioners of Mahāyāna also avoid eating strong-smelling plants such as onion, garlic, chives, shallot, and leek, and refer to these as wu hun (五葷, ‘Five Spices’). One theory behind this dietary restriction is that these vegetables have strong flavours which are supposed to excite the senses and, thus, represent a burden to Buddhists seeking to control their desires. Another theory is that these are all root crops, and harvesting them requires killing organisms in the soil. The latter explanation is accepted in the Jain religion that sprung up in India at the same time as Buddhism, and quite possibly influenced its practices.
In Buddhism, “retribution” is firmly believed and because of the conception that all things of nature have life, shōjin ryōri forbids eating meat and considers a virtue to make the most of vegetables and beans. The present-day perception of shōjin ryōri, in general, refers to a vegetarian diet, but this is only a narrow interpretation.
Up to the early twentieth century, the Japanese dietary habits have been unified with nature, and both vegetables and animal meat have been included in their daily food. However, the more the western style of cooking got popular in modern times, the more the idea of shōjin ryōri lost popularity. Nevertheless, Japanese cooking gets worldwide attention these days in terms of offering a healthy and well-balanced meal, and it partly ows shōjin ryōri for that.
Fujii Sotetsu, a Zen monk from the Heirin-ji temple, wrote about shōjin ryōri:
In the 13th century, Zen monks from China popularized a form of vegetarian cuisine in Japan known as shōjin ryōri. The practice of preparing delicious meals with seasonable vegetables and wild plants from the mountains, served with seaweed, fresh soybean curd (or dehydrated forms), and seeds (such as walnuts, pine nuts and peanuts) is a tradition that is still alive at Zen temples today. Stemming from the Buddhist precept that it is wrong to kill animals, including fish, shōjin ryōri is completely vegetarian. Buddhism prescribes partaking of a simple diet every day and abstaining from drinking alcohol or eating meat. Such a lifestyle, together with physical training, clears the mind of confusion and leads to understanding.
Even in preparing shōjin ryōri batter, we do not use unfertilized eggs as a binder; we use yam instead, which works quite well. Shōjin ryōri cooks also make sure not to waste any of the ingredients. We even sauté the greens and peelings of carrots and daikon radish, then simmer them in a little water, or we add them to soup. If there are any byproducts remaining after this, we mix them with leftover rice to make porridge for the evening. Followers of Zen try to eat all of the food prepared during the day, and throw nothing edible away. This “recycling” is easy if one minimizes seasoning, letting the natural flavor of the ingredients define the taste.
The Zen aversion to waste extends to dishware, too. When Japanese people eat deep-fried tempura, they use extra dishes for the dipping sauce. Followers of Zen, on the other hand, feel that sauces are extravagant to prepare and tend to drip and make a mess anyway, so we forgo using dipping sauces altogether. In fact, sauces are unnecessary with a little salt in the batter, or if one simmers vegetables in miso-flavored water before deep-frying them.
People ask me if I can maintain a balanced diet while eating only vegetables; the answer, of course, is yes. I have been following Buddhist training and eating only vegetarian meals for more than 50 years, yet have never even caught a cold in all that time. Life at a Zen temple is strict and demands much physical labor, but I can take it in stride because I have the power of seasonal vegetables on my side. Of course, shōjin ryōri is part of the Buddhist temple regimen, yet it is also my way of maintaining a sound mind and body.
Shōjin ryōri as it has been handed down and treasured in Japan today may be credited to a great extent to the discipline of Eisai, the founder of Zen in Japan. Eisai emphasized the first of the five precepts of Buddhism — to refrain from harming living creatures — a proscription that had been observed generally but not always applied to animals intended for slaughter. This resulted in a grand tradition of cooking and dining for religious enlightenment.
Eating in the shōjin style means much more than just eating. Food is approached as a vehicle, a part of a much larger daily practice that is the path to nirvana. The last of the five reflections uttered before eating — “I accept this food so that I will fulfill my task of enlightenment” — makes it clear that dinnertime is for more than just partaking of physical sustenance. It is an opportunity to reflect on how the food was prepared and brought to the table and whether one is truly worthy and deserving of accepting it.